Shirley Valentine supper of chips and egg 1st night in Greek waters

Just incase you think I have gone loop the *********loop - when we arrived in Kefalonia we did have a Greek salad for lunch. But, come evening we were soooooooooooo tired. I ordered Shirley Valentine's 'tipping point' meal of chips and egg - didn't I Wall.  And my man? What's he like my man Wall? He had Kalimari :O)

On the toe of the Italian boot - Reggio Calabria

Firstly, this town is subject to earthquakes and tsunami and if that isn't enough the people have to suffer legendary corruption of the 'Ndrangheta'. This group are not as famous outside of Italy as the Cosa Nostra, but are THE most powerful crime syndicate in Calabria. They are linked with the Sicilian mafia but work independently of them squeezing  everybody for everything! I've read that their 'activities' account for more than 3% of Italy's GDP.  Just recently all the local government and city councillors were sacked en mass due to links to Mafia. There are now three commissioners in place until the next election.

We felt a palpable air of desperation to make a buck here. The first morning in harbour we met Saverio who rocks up everyday at the Marina on his bycycle, announces himself with a flourish: ' I am Saverio' and gives his business card. We took him up on his offer to use his old Mercedes as a taxi as we had to get fuel (none at marina), food for the next 48 hour crossing and of course, wine! Saverio's idea of fun is to get his old Merc rocking in the outside lane of the main roads and then swing the steering wheel back and forth sharply! Singing some aria very loudly, he drove us to his lock-up, got out a sharp knife then proceeded to chop up a large waxed cheese for us to taste ( and of course buy - who had the knife here?) He then set up a wine tasting session. At this point I left to walk to the nearest Supermarket leaving Greg to wiggle out of the incessant sales talk. Eventually they came along to collecct me and the groceries.  Next stop  a garage to fill our fuel cans - diesel at 1 euro 40 cents not a bad price. While Greg filled the cans Saverio lit up his cigarette on the fore court. I walked away from the combustibles and noticed that all the local customers were smoking while filling up their tanks - unbelievable - but hey why not live dangerously? There is a real edge to this town for sure.

 

I like Saverio very much. He's a Mr Fixit and really good fun.

When he's not driving his old white mercedes, this is Saverio's mode of transport and advertising!

Capo Carbonara Sardinia

En route from Carloforte to Sicily we anchored overnight just outside the marina at Cape Carbonara...

  

 Interesting rock just off the beach.

New neighbours at sundown.

 

Passing Cape Carbonara lighthouse next morning, next stop Sicily...

Carloforte San Pietro southern Sardinia

A charming town. A Genoese enclave that still retains the Ligurian language. Just behind the marina are Salt marshes with pink flamingoes.

 Fiesta time and all the streets decorated...

ladies in black...

This beautiful girl is Diane - she makes the most amazing handbags. We spent an afternoon together and I taught her the basic Tunisian crochet stitches -

San Joan Cuitadella - a BUCKET LIST must see!

It is impossible to describe the experience of the San Joan fiesta in Cuitadella. Spectacular, incredible, these words just do not cut the mustard - so a few pictures may help explain...

These black stallions are specially bred near Cuitedella. They have naturally high gloss coats, fabulous eyes, elegant heads, long legs and are powerful, incredibly brave, agile ( they stand on their hind legs and hold the stance) they have nerves of steel - even in these crowds of thousands and thousands they looked pleased to be there. The horsemanship of the riders is evident in the way they ride and perform through the dense crowds without any mishap whatsoever. The horses and riders seem to share a nobility ...It was an absolute honour to be so close to them

This fiesta goes back some 500 years and has links to the Knights Templar.

A quiet space before meeting the crowds waiting to adore them...

After the horses the young men throw young women in the air...

Miguel and Carlos, two of aforementioned 'young men'...

And another girl skyrocketed. Simultaneously people raid hundreds of sacks of hazelnuts placed around town and throw them ( affectionately) at anyone they like. Greatest fun. The whole day people were drinking Pomada - the fiesta drink - of menorcan gin and lemonade but not one fight or menace anywhere.

Photos of Menorcan stallions at a 'Show' centre - I was sooooooooooo tempted to open their boxes and let them loose!

The 'eyes' have it!

These horses are bred in and around Cuitadella.

Let me out...

Noble head!

This fella and I gently blew up one anothers nostrils for quite awhile - I love the smell of horses. He didn't appear to object to my 'odour'. Perhaps it made a change for him to smell the sea :O)

The true bloods have this natural high shine coat.

Cute goat hanging around too.

Traditional fishing industry Cuitadella harbour

These traditional boats have given way to the big boys. Many of them have been restored, are used by their owners and they take pride of place along the harbours walls in Cuitadella harbour:

They sail and have large chestnut wooden oars and rowlocks:

I 

Speaking with a few of the owners, I told them about the Oyster boats in Falmouth and brought some images of them up on the computer screen for them.  It was gratifying to hear their appreciative oooohs and aahhs - souls recognising one another.

Met the gentleman who makes these wooden boats and the traditional 'hadra' fish and crustacean traps ( in the window). He chatted away to me for an age and told me he still fishes. He teaches anyone who is interested the weaving technique for the fish traps - he even has a class of children once a week. Great to know this skill is being passed on. I would love to attend his class but not sure my Catalan is quite up to speed :O)

A lobster's view from inside the hadra - only one way out - into the pot!

Cuitadella marina at sunset.

And what more do you need to accompany fresh Dorado ( Sea Bass) than a glass of Menorcan wine?