Firstly, this town is subject to earthquakes and tsunami and if that isn't enough the people have to suffer legendary corruption of the 'Ndrangheta'. This group are not as famous outside of Italy as the Cosa Nostra, but are THE most powerful crime syndicate in Calabria. They are linked with the Sicilian mafia but work independently of them squeezing everybody for everything! I've read that their 'activities' account for more than 3% of Italy's GDP. Just recently all the local government and city councillors were sacked en mass due to links to Mafia. There are now three commissioners in place until the next election.
We felt a palpable air of desperation to make a buck here. The first morning in harbour we met Saverio who rocks up everyday at the Marina on his bycycle, announces himself with a flourish: ' I am Saverio' and gives his business card. We took him up on his offer to use his old Mercedes as a taxi as we had to get fuel (none at marina), food for the next 48 hour crossing and of course, wine! Saverio's idea of fun is to get his old Merc rocking in the outside lane of the main roads and then swing the steering wheel back and forth sharply! Singing some aria very loudly, he drove us to his lock-up, got out a sharp knife then proceeded to chop up a large waxed cheese for us to taste ( and of course buy - who had the knife here?) He then set up a wine tasting session. At this point I left to walk to the nearest Supermarket leaving Greg to wiggle out of the incessant sales talk. Eventually they came along to collecct me and the groceries. Next stop a garage to fill our fuel cans - diesel at 1 euro 40 cents not a bad price. While Greg filled the cans Saverio lit up his cigarette on the fore court. I walked away from the combustibles and noticed that all the local customers were smoking while filling up their tanks - unbelievable - but hey why not live dangerously? There is a real edge to this town for sure.
We felt a palpable air of desperation to make a buck here. The first morning in harbour we met Saverio who rocks up everyday at the Marina on his bycycle, announces himself with a flourish: ' I am Saverio' and gives his business card. We took him up on his offer to use his old Mercedes as a taxi as we had to get fuel (none at marina), food for the next 48 hour crossing and of course, wine! Saverio's idea of fun is to get his old Merc rocking in the outside lane of the main roads and then swing the steering wheel back and forth sharply! Singing some aria very loudly, he drove us to his lock-up, got out a sharp knife then proceeded to chop up a large waxed cheese for us to taste ( and of course buy - who had the knife here?) He then set up a wine tasting session. At this point I left to walk to the nearest Supermarket leaving Greg to wiggle out of the incessant sales talk. Eventually they came along to collecct me and the groceries. Next stop a garage to fill our fuel cans - diesel at 1 euro 40 cents not a bad price. While Greg filled the cans Saverio lit up his cigarette on the fore court. I walked away from the combustibles and noticed that all the local customers were smoking while filling up their tanks - unbelievable - but hey why not live dangerously? There is a real edge to this town for sure.
I like Saverio very much. He's a Mr Fixit and really good fun.
When he's not driving his old white mercedes, this is Saverio's mode of transport and advertising!
Bahahaha - OMG your choice of sentence structure almost gave me a heart attack... 'He drove us to his lock-up, got out a sharp knife'... my eyes could not get to the next line fast enough - I thought after that build up of Mafia talk you were gonna say he robbed you LMAO!!!
ReplyDeleteWe thought the taxi driver we didn't mention in the blog was more than capable of mugging us...but we may have misunderstood his passive aggressiveness LOL
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